Standard Operating Procedure: Residential Property Inspection

This SOP provides a structured methodology for evaluating a residential property prior to purchase. The objective is to mitigate financial risk, identify deferred maintenance, and establish a clear baseline for negotiation or capital expenditure planning. This procedure assumes the user will perform an initial self-assessment before engaging a licensed professional home inspector.

Exterior & Site Evaluation

• Foundation: Check for horizontal cracks, bowing, or significant settling. Ensure ground slopes away from the house (positive drainage).
• Roofing: Inspect for curled, missing, or damaged shingles. Look for evidence of sagging, ponding (on flat roofs), or worn flashing around chimneys and vents.
• Siding/Cladding: Evaluate for wood rot, cracked stucco, loose siding, or peeling paint. Look for gaps where pests might enter.
• Windows/Doors: Check seals and frames for rot. Ensure all windows operate smoothly and locks are functional.
• Drainage: Confirm that downspouts extend at least 4–6 feet away from the foundation. Check that gutters are free of debris.

Interior Systems & Infrastructure

• HVAC: Check the age and service tags on the furnace and AC unit. Turn systems on to confirm they reach desired temperatures. Note any unusual vibrations or odors.
• Electrical: Inspect the service panel for outdated wiring (knob-and-tube or aluminum). Test random outlets with a simple circuit tester. Confirm GFCIs are present in kitchens, bathrooms, and garages.
• Plumbing: Turn on all faucets simultaneously to check water pressure. Flush toilets and check for slow drainage. Look under sinks for active leaks or signs of previous water damage (warped cabinetry).
• Water Heater: Note the manufacture date. Check for corrosion on the tank or signs of leaking at the valves.

Interior Living Spaces

• Walls/Ceilings: Look for water stains, bowing, or crack patterns (diagonal cracks over doors often indicate structural shifting).
• Flooring: Check for unevenness, excessive squeaking, or soft spots which may indicate subfloor moisture damage.
• Attic: Observe insulation levels and check for signs of roof leaks (dark streaks on rafters) or poor ventilation (mold growth).
• Basement/Crawlspace: Look for "efflorescence" (white powdery substance on walls), which indicates moisture seepage. Check for musty odors indicating mold.

Pro Tips & Pitfalls

• Pro Tip: Bring the Right Gear. Always carry a flashlight, a marble (to check for floor levelness), a outlet tester, and a moisture meter.
• Pro Tip: The Neighbor Factor. Speak to neighbors if possible; they are often the best source of historical information regarding flooding, crime, or quiet hours.
• Pitfall: Ignoring Cosmetics. Never let fresh paint or staged furniture distract you from fundamental issues like foundation cracks or outdated electrical.
• Pitfall: Skipping the Sewer Scope. For homes older than 30 years, always pay for a professional sewer scope. A collapsed sewer line can cost $5,000–$15,000 to repair, often hidden from the main inspection.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Should I hire a professional if I complete this checklist? Yes. This checklist is for your personal due diligence. A professional home inspector provides a legal report, uses thermal imaging and specialized tools, and carries liability insurance for missed defects.

2. What is considered a "deal-breaker" during an inspection? Major structural issues (foundation failure), significant safety hazards (active knob-and-tube wiring, gas leaks), or environmental hazards (asbestos, high radon levels) are typically considered deal-breakers unless the seller agrees to significant price concessions or repairs.

3. What happens if the inspection reveals major problems? You generally have three options: request the seller perform the repairs, request a price reduction or closing cost credit to handle the repairs yourself, or exercise your inspection contingency to terminate the contract and recoup your earnest money.